I ♡ Oaxaca

It's true. I love the perfect weather, the culture, the mountains I see in the background every day, the laid-back people, and just the generally cool vibe of everything about this city. And while I'm at it, I also love the word Oaxaca.

Now, maybe you're wondering if I've had one too many mezcals (which would be two mezcals, by the way) and this is just a tipsy, late night "I love you" but that's actually not the case. It's morning on a Saturday, and this is simply me realizing my time here is winding down and already starting to feel nostalgic. So, on that note, here are a few things I love about Oaxaca.

1. The energy. 

This video probably sums this up best. This is called a calenda, which is a street party celebration of any number of life events such as, in this case, a marriage, but it can also be a graduation or a girl's quinceanera (15th birthday). I see calendas once or twice a week.

And any given evening I can walk out of my apartment and head toward the center of town (about 5 minutes) and I'll find tons of happy people out and about, doing things like eating corn on a stick from street vendors, hanging out in the park with their families, shopping, or enjoying the weather at a rooftop bar.  The other day I walked through a park and first passed a group of kids having a freestyle rap contest and then a group of about 10 people in an African dance circle. What the?

2. The beauty.  

Oaxaca has gorgeous cathedrals made of green volcanic brick, a picturesque aqueduct built in the 1700s that runs through the entire city, and stunning, hand-painted murals covering walls everywhere you turn. I love the gritty, unapologetically colorful beauty of Oaxaca.

Santo Domingo Cathedral in the center of town

The aqueduct near my house 

Art like this is everywhere you turn

Walking through town with Jess 

3. The culture. 

Mexican culture can really be felt anywhere I've been in this country, but particularly in Oaxaca. Take, for example, the giant puppets that dance during the calendas. They're called monos de calenda, and they're ever-present here, twirling through the middle of a street parade swinging their long floppy arms or diving into the crowd. (Watch them in action in the video above.) But to me, these puppets are somehow even more entertaining when they're off-duty, just casually chilling in the park or hanging in front of a store, like these rather unimpressed-looking guys.

A serious day at church  

She seems happy to have a night off

Oaxaca also has a creativity you feel when you walk through town, passing places like rug weaving shops, screenprinting studios, art galleries, clothing designers, and of course the aisles of traditional crafts, like black and green pottery and woven bags and baskets. Seriously, I want it all.

4. The mezcal.
Don't get me started on mezcal. I had never had it before living in Mexico but now it's my drink of choice. I love the beautiful bluish agave plants that it's made from, the old-school process of producing it (this can involve a horse), and of course the smooth, smoky tingle of the drink itself.

Excited to try this place

 Cheers! A happy day in a town called Tule

5.  My neighborhood (and every neighborhood I've lived in here, actually)

The historic neighborhood of Xochimilco, where I am currently staying, is a bit further up the street in the image below–  you just keep following the aqueduct. I love this barrrio because it's charming and quiet yet still just a couple of blocks from the action of the city center. It's also got an understated cool (Oaxaca's trademark) and is full of narrow cobblestone streets, bright street art, and tiny, quaint coffee and chocolate shops. When I come back to Oaxaca, I know I'll come back here.  I might even stay in the same apartment, because as you might recall from this post, I love it, too.

My apartment

At my local coffee shop

This is where I take Spanish classes with Catalina 

6. The people. Especially these two. 

In fact, I wouldn't even be in Oaxaca if it weren't for them! Would I like the city as much without them? Hard to imagine. 

Yes, they are always this cute! 

And my new friend, Jess, who might love Oaxaca more than I do. 

Does she look at home or what?

But of course, I also love Oaxacans. People here seem genuine to me, and maybe that's because this city doesn't get anywhere near the number of tourists as somewhere like San Miguel de Allende or even Merida for that matter (and since this blog only has 4 followers, it might stay that way).  Oaxacans are friendly, for sure, but never overbearing or intrusive in any way. For the most part, living here I feel somewhat ignored by the locals, and that's how I like it. It lets me blend into the background and pretend I'm not a tourist for a change. I may have found my people. 

Did I mention I'm applying for residency? 

Money spent yesterday
55 pesos - Laundry
90 pesos - Lunch at the organic market
125 pesos - A few groceries

=270 pesos/$14 USD